Longarm meander quilting pattern4/20/2024 ![]() ![]() Great question Dar and Sheryl! We can order them for you or you can order them from. I can now see the bubbles before they appear. I sometimes have problems with the wadding bunching slightly in the middle, but not attaching the top to the leader and your demo makes really good sense. ![]() That’s wonderful Joanna! I’m so glad you found this video helpful! Leah Day, September 26, 2018 Do you know where I can get them? Janet Lindquist, January 17, 2019 My Qnique 14 does not have the channel locks. If it’s not, you will need to order them separately. Channel locks should have come with your frame if it’s the Continuum. Should all of the rails be at the same height? I run into an issue when the quilt increases on the take up rail and I’m unsure what height and when to adjust the rails, or which rails to adjust. Both sides should be on the same notch or number of the back rail, but no please don’t worry about the front rails (I don’t think they adjust anyway). Hi Deb – You should be adjusting the back rail to raise higher as the quilt rolls up on the rail. ![]() how do I get the rows closer? Denise, January 3, 2022 There is too much space between rows of meander with a pantograph. Once the quilt is reset, which only takes about five minutes, I'm ready to get back to quilting! Click here to check out the other Frame quilting Friday videos I've shared and see many more designs stitched on this double straight diamond quilt. I usually adjust the frame up by one mark and make sure I can stick my fingers between the rolled up quilt and the machine bed. You can lift the height of the top rail using bolts on the sides of the continuum frame. This rail will become thicker and can rub against your machine bed. The last thing to check is the height of the top rail once the quilt has been rolled up on it. ![]() I tuck the batting and quilt top between the second and third rails again and pop on the quilt clips to. Last I pull down the quilt top and smooth it out to. Then I flipped down the batting and smooth it out quickly over the backing fabric. I roll up the backing fabric onto the second rail and tell it's firmly held, but not too tight which can cause tension issues on the frame. Once the quilt is rolled up to the right spot, I reset the latch on the second rail and flip the bedding and quilt top over the frame so it's out of my way. I roll the quilt so that I can still connect with the last set of lines stitched, just in case I want to travel stitch along them and add to those designs. Especially during the first roll up, I'm very careful to watch out for pins sticking out of the leader cloth that could catch on my fingers. Then I carefully roll up the quilted section of the quilt onto the top rail. Next I unlock the second rails and unroll the backing fabric that was rolled off on this side. I began by pulling off my quilt clips and lifting the bedding and quilt top out of the space between the second and third rail. When I fill up space on my frame, it's exciting to advance to the next area so I can fill it up too. One of the main things I love about quilting on a long arm is how much faster and easier it fills. When you've mastered advancing your quilt on a longarm, you'll want to learn the best and most efficient way of removing a quilt from a longarm. Quick links to the tools and supplies shown in this quilting video: Learn how I roll up the quilt to reach the next area to work on in this new quilting tutorial: Welcome back to another Frame quilting Friday! I reached a point with my double straight diamond quilt that I need to advance the quilt through the frame. ![]()
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